Tarhana (Dry Soup Mix)
Story of Tarhana
Tarhana is a cherished tradition, evoking memories of family gatherings, bustling kitchens, and the comforting warmth of rich, fermented soup, especially when the colder months roll in. I remember my grandmother preparing batches of Tarhana that would last us through winter. The aroma of fermented tomatoes, peppers, and sour yogurt would fill the house, as the dough was laid out to dry on clean fabrics on the sergen. Tarhana was always the first thing we’d reach for when we felt the first chill of winter, comforting us with its complex, tangy flavors and warming our souls as much as our bodies. Now, I pass this recipe on to you, hoping it brings the same warmth and comfort to you and your family.
TARHANA: THE TRADITIONAL FERMENTED SOUP MIX; THE ORIGIN OF MODERN SOUP-MIXES
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Ingredients
For 3.5-4 kg soup mix:
2 kg tomatoes
2 kg sweet red peppers
2 kg yogurt
1 kg onions
1 kg whole wheat flour
3 kg unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tbsp salt
½ tbsp dry yeast
Notes from the Kitchen
*The reduced tomatoes, peppers, and grated onions will serve as the liquid for the dough, enhancing the flavor and nutrition of the soup mix.
**If your kitchen is warm, the dough may rise quickly and over flow out of its container. You might want to check on the dough periodically, or place it on a clean wide surface so you can collect and add the overflow back into the container.
Avoid adding more flour during fermentation to prevent overfeeding the bacteria.
If you prefer a tangier flavor, you can stop fermentation by Day 5 or continue until Day 9 for a sweeter, more developed taste.
Directions
DAY 1: PREP AND REDUCING
Straining the Yogurt:
Line a large sieve with 3-4 layers of cheesecloth and place it over a deep container.
Pour the yogurt into the sieve and allow the excess water to drain for 4-5 hours.
Prepping the Tomatoes:
Wash, dry, and discard the stems and seeds of the tomatoes.
Roughly chop the tomatoes and place them in a deep pot. Cook over medium heat until they release their juices.
Prepping the Peppers:
Wash, dry, and discard the stems and seeds of the red peppers.
Chop and place them in a separate pot. Cook at a low heat, gradually increasing to medium-high, for 40-45 minutes until most of the juice has evaporated.
Prepping the Onions:
Peel and wash the onions.
Grate the onions right before preparing the dough*.
DAY 2: THE DOUGH
Mixing the Ingredients:
In a large container, combine the reduced tomatoes and peppers, grated onions, and strained yogurt. Using a hand blender, purée everything until smooth.
Add ½ tbsp dry yeast and gradually incorporate both the whole wheat and all-purpose flours to the purée. Add salt when you are about half way through the flour, then continue adding the flour, mixing the dough as you go.
Kneading the Dough:
Knead the dough for 25-30 minutes until it’s smooth and elastic.
Cover the container with breathable fabric and let the dough rest on the counter for 10-12 hours, or overnight**.
DAY 1-9: FERMENTATION PROCESS
Day 1:
On the first day of fermentation, the dough will be highly active. Knead it every 2 hours for 5-10 minutes or until it deflates slightly. Cover and allow it to rise again.
Day 2:
By the second day, fermentation will slow down. Knead the dough once in the morning and once in the evening.
Day 3-6:
Continue kneading twice daily. By Day 3, you'll notice a change in the dough’s texture. From Day 4 onward, the surface of the dough may appear slightly dry, but that’s perfectly normal.
Day 7:
A soft scab may form on the surface. Knead the dough thoroughly to keep its moisture homogenous.
Day 8-9:
Fermentation will eventually halt. Continue kneading twice daily until Day 9, when your dough will be fully matured and ready for the drying process.
DAY 10-11: DRYING THE DOUGH
Day 1:
On a sunny, slightly breezy day, cover a large table with clean fabric that will absorb the dough's moisture. Using a large spoon, spread the dough into thin patties on the fabric and let them dehydrate under the sun.
After a few hours, the patties will become solid enough to flip. Tear them into smaller pieces as they dry to ensure even dehydration.
Day 2:
As the dough dries out, it will get very tough. Before the dough pieces are completely dry, process them into fine particles using a food processor. Sift the particles to ensure uniform size and reprocess any larger pieces.
Spread the final product onto wide trays in thin layers to air dry for an additional 10 days.
DAY 12-22: FINAL DRYING
Keep the trays in a shaded, well-ventilated area. Stir the Tarhana once or twice daily to ensure all particles dry evenly.
STORAGE
After 10 days, your Tarhana will be fully dried and ready for storage. Transfer the dried mix into clean glass jars and store in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator. Your homemade Tarhana will keep for up to a year, providing a cozy, hearty soup base whenever you need it. Alternatively, my grandmother used to keep dried Tarhana in flour sacks hung from the ceiling of the food cellar.
With each spoonful, you’ll taste the depth of flavors brought forth by slow fermentation and natural drying. Share this timeless tradition with your family and friends, keeping the warmth of Tarhana alive through the generations.
